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Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 320 total)
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  • in reply to: Bondage & Rope Art #3039
    Batione
    Participant

    I am a rope lover, and I am not fiber-racist, love them all,

    But I got a good collection of picture from rope failure from rope suspension (hemp , jutte).
    But none from synthetics.

    If you saw and have the report and picture, please I will be interested to see that.

    in reply to: Synthetic vs Natural #3042
    Fortannige
    Participant

    I make my own hemp, jute, bamboo-silk, and cotton ropes (I have a few others in the works but they are in the testing phase so coming soon), and when I vend at events I offer dyed nylon rope.

    I’ve found after testing the different materials (natural vs. synthetic that is; testing each type of material against each other is another another post entirely) and… asking a few different people from different engineering backgrounds what could be attributed to the failure of synthetic vs. natural ropes that tend to be twisted in their construction vs. synthetic that tends to be braided.

    Basicly the braided nylon rope allows for a more even wear and tear over the material over the life of the rope.

    This information was brought to me by some friends at the United States Army Corps of Engineers and a mechanical engineer that I keep on staff here at Bastard Ropes. So if Ive butchered the re-telling of this info…oops.

    Cheers,

    in reply to: Synthetic vs Natural #3043
    Batione
    Participant

    I played with both braided and twisted MFP, and found that the twisted was more resistant to abrasion. More then 5 years with Hempex.

    I worked alots in the military with nylon 10mm twisted and 10mm cotton braided, for rappelling and boats operation. But even in very rough test, again rocks and hard surface, both was very similar.
    In rappelling the nylon offer little elasticity and over a 50m cliff is became very heavy, less for the cotton.

    we worked with little ropes 3mm jute or paracorde, and was normal that people saw the jute breaking for some of the things. I even did a rappelling from a paracorde, not recommanded.

    But only in Bondage I saw so many rope break with natural fiber, and none from the synthetics.
    I think its can be also related to the the breaking the fiber when the bending occur over a small object.
    Fiber get damage but not visible.

    in reply to: Synthetic vs Natural #3044
    Intentookey
    Participant

    I know how twisted rope is made, but I’m not really sure about braided, but this doesn’t make much sense to me. Unless we are talking about ropes that are made with an outer sheath (core/sheath or kern/mantle construction)? In climbing ropes, there is a tough, durable outer woven sheath that covers the actual inner working rope. Can you explain to me how/why this works?

    in reply to: Synthetic vs Natural #3045
    Huchicark80
    Participant

    Your ex-canadian military!?!?! Well holy shit, who’d you work with? We mighta done some damage together some place?

    Sounds like you were using the “green rope” I still use the two spools that… “fell off a truck”. Its great stuff and will last forever if you keep it outta the sun, going on two years of fair use myself and not a sign of damage or decay.

    Does the swiss seat look familiar?
    Look at that handsome face!

    Paracord sigh done everything with, mostly just to see if we could. Ill never rappel with paracord again if I can help it but it does work and lasts forever. Still got a length in my backyard under tension and has been getting abused for two years (its apart of my rope walk) and is still going strong.

    And with all the tying I’ve done I’ve retired a three sets of natural fiber rope (2x jute, 1x hemp) after having them tested they coulda lasted longer than when I had retired them, but the breaking strength after I had retired them compared to new/unused ropes now was between 15% – 20%. Honestly not a huge deal considering the breaking strength at the start for a single stand were 490lbs for the hemp and I dont remember for the jute, but it was weaker, never stopped us from tying with it.

    To again to answer your initial question. After all the “fair” wear and tear I’ve put rope through over the last couple of years. Twisted Natural fiber rope such as jute or hemp have shown a greater tendency over the synthetic nylon rope.

    *Note: I’ve been using solid braid nylon rope NOT, twisted nylon, twisted nylon excluding the “Green” rope i’ve had little work with.

    in reply to: Synthetic vs Natural #3046
    Pegglind
    Participant

    There are some Youtube videos out there on synthetic braided ropes, crazy to watch. I tried making braided jute rope apart of my repertoire at BastardRopes.com but its just not time/cost effective, but it would increase the strength I imagine, but never had it tested.

    But I was referring to solid braided nylon 1/4(6 mm) rope not twisted nylon.
    My bad didn’t clarify. But no they didn’t even have an outter sheath like you’d find on climbing ropes that are often used today.

    Theres tons of really useful information on the construction and production of nylon rope rope twisted and braided. The history is fascinating. What’s less fascinating is the addition of poly fiber to nylon rope a few years ago. Unrelated but still annoying.

    Cheers to all,

    in reply to: Bondage & Rope Art #3047
    Pegglind
    Participant

    I am very new to rope bondage…i have spend some time reading , looking at pictures..videos..and mostly female models are used .

    I have seen and practised myself a bit with a male model, rope bondage…are there things i have to consider when working with male models?
    ..ie…take care of genitals….the most obvious…

    I feel a bit silly putting it out there but…i have no one close by to actually show me…

    Any feedback would be great…thanks

    Aboughtters
    Participant

    Well, with few exceptions, you don’t have the same physiology to work around when doing a chest harness. Men are going to.need more length in the shoulder, but won’t have breasts to guide rope around. (There are exceptions, as I said).

    You also have to factor in height. Since I am a bit vertically challenged, the men I have practiced with needed to kneel while being tied (not that they minded). 😉

    Thoillody
    Participant

    Tons of differences. Some just weight, body fat composition, some due to gender.
    Men tend to be less flexible. Once you tie them up, they tend to stay tied. Women smaller hands, flexy, can often slip out of ties.

    Crotch ropes are fun on women as are breast cupcake ties. they just don’t work on guys.

    Can’t do a hair tie on most guys; I substitute a gag and pull back.

    women have a floating rib. if you do any suspension or heavy pulling, you have to watch out for damaging that floating rib and make sure you get those bands high up and right under the boobs (think “mammogram”) – guys not such an issue.

    The boobs provide landmarks and anchors for chest harnesses and takate kotes (aka japanese box tie). if you have dual bands and pull them together, boobs keep the bands apart. With guys, you may have to add a spacer. e.g. add a spiral twist as a column between the two chest bands to keep them apart.

    Box ties depend on getting the elbows in close to and parallel to the body. A lot of guys (and some women) can’t do that. Their arms will resemble a triangle, and the tie falls apart. So don’t fight it, Keep the arms straighter, and do a handcuff type arrangement

    Other ties like armbinders/strappados and futomomos depend on a certain amount of flexibility and tying it tight, using friction of the skin to help hold it in place. If you aren’t flexy, they are tougher to tie.
    Hint for a futo: bend the leg as closed as possible. Then have them point their toe down. When they sink forward, their weight and toe will help jam the lower leg closer to the upper leg and keep it snug while you tie.
    Hint for an armbinder. help them stretch some by wrapping your arms around and pull their shoulders back and in. Then extend their arms behind and do it again. Anchor the armbinder around the upper body, then work your way down to the wrists.

    Women have curvier and meatier hips. Wiry folks may have lots of pain when a hip harness goes over bony areas. Adjust as needed.

    I think thats mostly it, except for suspensions. There its mostly weight, so you may need to add an extra wrap to give guys more comfort

    Youds1949
    Participant

    This is a personal pet topic for me. I am fed up hearing that there’s no difference apart from the shape of the body or where the fatty bits are.

    It’s much more than just that!

    WARNING: I am not a fan of gender stereotypes. I am equally averse to trying to make everything I type totally politically correct and inclusive beyond the point of reasonable effort! The remainder of this post will be generalisations that I have found through tying masculine bodies of all genders as compared to the feminine ones. I use the term “men” to mean anyone self identifying as masculine or a man

    The men I have tied have a different mindset in what they want to get out of their rope bondage experience. Whilst many women fell this way also, most men I have encountered need to feel strongly bound, captured, unable to escape with the fact that they are strong is emphasised and deliberately countered. They are less about decorative ties that flatter their physique and more about the functionality of the tie being solid and inescapable. Unless the man is particularly submissive and likes being told to stand still I have found that most want to be physically directed or “made” to assume certain positions. The men I’ve tied have been less extrovert and less exhibitionist and so the majority of them I have ended up tying with in small settings rather than big clubs. I rarely photograph the men I tie at their request.

    It is always worth remembering that it is often much less socially acceptable for a man to appear publicly in bondage compared to a woman. Even within the kink scene there’s a misconception that all men who are sub like to be humiliated or made to look weak. Quite a few I know love the fact that their bondage makes them appear stronger and more masculine. Quite often masculine rope bottoms are not submissive (also true of a lot of feminine ones too). BUT if you find yourself with a masculine submissive who craves objectification and humiliation you’re going to have to take that into account.

    Chest ties. Giving a masculine type “moobs” is not going to win you any prizes. Decorative chest ties look great on feminine bodies. Sticking with clean lines emphasises the masculine one. Muscular men are going to have issues with flexibility as the trade off for bigger muscle bulk is less range of motion. Getting to know chest ties with arms in front of the body will be essential for working with larger framed men.

    Hips. Lovely wide hips on feminine body make hip harnesses dead easy. Much more care is needed on a masculine body as the hip to waist ratio can be wildly different and the “loose” hip rope that works for a woman could just slip and fail on a man. Women get a bit more padding on the hips from mother nature too, so some guys just won’t be able to tolerate a hip harness at all.

    Weight is a factor. That is not the same as saying men are too heavy to be tied.It just means that you’ll have to consider if given your man’s body shape and weight is it safe for you to do partial or full suspension? Can you manage their weight in an accidental fall or slip? How are you going to make it safer? I happily tie with someone almost 1.5 times my bodyweight and have suspended him, but I have to approach it with a different view of the physics than I do for my 0.6 times my bodyweight female bunny.

    Thich1979
    Participant

    I can’t comment much on the mental aspects of gender thinking differences.

    As for presentation, this is less of concern. If I want a person’s chest squeezed enough to make blood flow make their nipples sensitive, I am going to tie with that goal.

    It is always worth remembering that it is often much less socially acceptable for a man to appear publicly in bondage compared to a woman.
    I will agree with elements of the above. Some scenes are very male top/female bottom oriented and people get all flustered and confused. You can have event organizers and other folks act with less respect and consideration. It sucks and drives male bottoms that I respect to play in private even at kink events.

    As for “weight” as a factor. It is a factor for both genders (or any person). Ditto for height disadvantage, person volume and strength factors. Lifting someone who is thin, shorter and some low weight is relatively easy. When you have to move away from them, use pulleys and cause things like carabiners or rings to angle, the forces change significantly along with the risks.

    There are also muscle, flexibility, fat tissue and nerve exposure issues. I have played with some extremely flexible “male” bodies. Again, it doesn’t matter on gender.

    In other words, it isn’t a gender given the huge range of bodies. It is a knowledge and skill aspect that is poorly understood in the rope world.

    Therty
    Participant

    I agree, wholeheartedly. We refer to Riggers as riggers or rope tops, we still use the term rope bottom adding “and models”. There are still males here that have no issue with the word bottom because in their minds, they are ON the bottom while the rigger is on Top.

    Without jacking your thread – I hear you, I understand the lack of males as models/rope bottoms; I’m hoping that with time and increased visibility, the interest to be tied will increase. Our own rope scene up here is quite small and a bit behind everyone else in the US but, there are enough smaller camps working with and indepedently of each other; that we are working towards a change.

    I can only encourage you to meet with local riggers and present the idea of creating a rope group with the intent of working with males as bottoms for scenes & practice. See how many would be interested and build your foundation from there.

    As for the issue if flexibility, at 38, I feel the need to take yoga and work on increasing my bend – at my age and going forward; I’m not nearly as flexible physically as I was in my 20’s. Given what I seek to achieve, it’s a requirement.

    in reply to: Bondage & Rope Art #3053
    Therty
    Participant

    Good evening everyone.

    I was looking through all the discussions and I didn’t come across one discussing this. If I am mistaken, please link to that thread and excuse mine.

    I am curious to know what kind of rope did everyone first use? What material? How thick was it? Length? Color? What did you try doing? How did that work out for you?

    If you could recommend a first rope using those same details, what would you tell someone new to the art?

    Personally, I have not used rope yet, but am hoping to for artistic aspects and some light bondage. No suspensions here! I really look forward to hearing responses and listening to your stories.

    Thank you!

    in reply to: First Rope #3054
    Harawas
    Participant

    FIRST, VERY FIRST ITEM, BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE – purchase a set of EMT Sheers.

    Those scissors that can cut a penny in half. You can find them in any Pharmacy. Keep them close and handy. If you sense discomfort at all, USE THEM and get your model loose. Remember, a cut rope can be replaced. Nerve damage can be forever.

    Watch where you put the ropes and how tightly. STAY AWAY FROM THE NECK, UNDER ARMS, INSIDE THE CROTCH. Touch your models finger tips, toes etc. Check skin warmth and color often. KEEP IN CONTACT VERBALLY.

    A good rule, if you ask “Is everything OK?” and the answer is “I’ll be alright”, that means there is something wrong that your model is trying to tough out. If your models answer indicates distress, stop and find out where the discomfort is and FIX IT or STOP.

    Remember, this can be very dangerous and it should be treated with the proper respect and forthought.

    OK, my Rope Safety PSA is done.
    Now, on to the fun.

    My first rope was from Lowes and it is still my basic choice for all work. I now own several hundred feet of this stuff:
    Lehigh 3/8-in x 50-ft White Twisted Nylon Rope
    Item #: 349205 | Model #: 071514002842

    Twisted nylon is soft enough for virgin skin and very flexible.

    Then I’d suggest looking on YouTube for Two Knotty Boys demo of the DragonFly Sleeve

    Google “The Dragonfly Sleeve by TKB – YouTube”

    Also, check the ‘Stickies’ at the top of the group for more info.

    Have fun.

    in reply to: First Rope #3055
    Pannour
    Participant

    I bought plain, white twisted nylon from a hardware store that was 1/4 inch thick. The first pack I bought was fifty feet, and I cut it into one thirty foot length and two ten foot lengths. The longer lengths was for body ties like chest harnesses, and the shorter ones for hands and feet. At that time I was tying simple things like spread-eagles and hands behind the back. Price was also a consideration, and I built up more rope over time.
    I’ve since switched to natural fiber like hemp and jute, because it has more tooth and the knots and wraps hold better. I use thirty foot lengths, because I’ve also started tying more Japanese-style bondage. It’s the combination of rope and technique that I prefer, but I still have some of the nylon in case the person I’m tying doesn’t like the feel of hemp or has allergies.
    I’ll agree that Two Knotty Boy’s videos and books are a good place to get starting ideas, and that safety is important too.
    Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun!

Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 320 total)